Every now and again mountain nymphs wiggle into our
consciousness calling for a visit. With
North Carolina claiming “the height of foliage season”, we jumped ship for a
little R&R in the highlands of NC with Jill and Bill Schoonmaker. “Mile Marker 65” is just now in Bill’s
rearview mirror, and Jill planned a fabulous escape to celebrate friendship,
courtship, architecture and gastronomy!
The Schoonmakers and Friend
The trek inland was a good 7 hour climb past marshes,
rolling fields, acres of exploded cotton buds, grazing cattle and finally into
the ear-popping Appalachians.
Mount Pisgah National Forest from one of the Biltmore's many verandas.
And from the Biltmore's roof.
Jill found
a little bungalow in the very Hipster and Aged-Hippie intellectual enclave of
Asheville. We were in amid trees and
parks, and across from some very well mannered goats in the neighbor’s
yard. This was not going to be a
boater’s weekend!
Friday’s activity:
The Biltmore Estate general tour with a special “Architect’s Tour” in
the afternoon. The Vanderbilt family
fortune, built on the shipping and railroad industry boom, has left many
glorious landmarks, but truly, the Breakers in Newport, Rhode Island DOES look
like a summer cottage in comparison. We
spent eight full hours at the estate,
and could easily have spent another full day soaking in the rest. By the way, at almost 180,000 square feet, The Biltmore is the largest private residence in the United States. If not the world.
Views from the Biltmore's roof on the Architect's Tour...
Saving the vineyard and Olmstead’s landscape
miracles for another trip, we sat on the veranda at the Biltmore Inn for
cocktails and sunset. It’s nice to feel
like royalty now and again….
Royalty at The Biltmore Inn
Saturday we spent checking out the “what’s happening now”
art and commerce scene in Asheville. You
name it, there’s a studio for it. From
boutique and high end clothing stores to artisanal coffees and organic goatmilk
soaps….Asheville is vegan, gluten free, eco-forward…as Portlandia as Portland!
Dining was a treat.
Jill’s research and whimsy gave the four of us more than a few extra pounds,
and some great memories. Rather than
give the mouthwatering details, find The Admiral, Seven Sows Larder, Tupelo
Honey and most definitely, Biscuit Head. O.M.G.!
A Mountain Biscuit Recipe
Sunday we retraced our steps back to Norfolk, met up with
friends Dennis and Kathy aboard Tranquility, and settled in for a final sigh
over a weekend well spent. Tomorrow, as
Willie would croon, we’ll be On the Road Again….
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