A grand tour of the Exumas, Bahamas starts with a Flamingo Air flight aboard a 9 seat plane – a “Barbie plane” bound to Staniel Cay from Nassau. The 45-minute flight showcases the brilliant and varied blues of the Bahamian waters. The pilots are competent. The plane is island-worthy – well worn, but serviceable. It brings me safely to Tess & Tony who wait under an open air “gazebo”. Tess & Tony share a story about a woman who lives on Staniel. She flew in 40 years ago and after flying in over the amazingly clear waters, declared she would never leave. How lucky for her. How lucky for me that my good friends have invited me. AHHH! It feels so good to be here. I can feel myself relaxing already.
First a stop at the local market where fresh produce, eggs, etc have been purchased and set aside for pick up upon my arrival, which fortunately coincides with the arrival of the weekly supply boat. We’ll eat well for the rest of the week. Then we’re off to the dock where the dinghy has been tied. A pit stop at restaurant beach allows for a change into my island attire and a short walk to the Staniel Cay yacht club for a Kilik, perhaps. Or rather a decision to race back to the boat. We’re anchored at the Big Majors, famous for its swimming pigs who hang out on the beach waiting for food scraps from the tourist boaters.
The weather is perfect for a late afternoon, early evening swim. The T&T team spoils me immediately by serving grilled spiny lobster tail with cole slaw for dinner, accompanied by wine from Lisa aboard “Messenger”, who made sure that Tess & I would have a bottle to share. Tess bakes an amazing ginger cake by improving upon a recipe from the book “An Embarrassment of Mangoes” by Ann Vanderhoof. Tess substitutes maple syrup for molasses. Tony & I can’t get enough of it. We have it for breakfast the next 2 mornings. Yummy!
The book has been left on my bunk’s shelf for my reading pleasure. The perfect book for a cruise through the Exumas where the author details her own island hopping adventures. It’s a book that has been recommended to me several years ago. I am delighted be given the chance to read it aboard Endurance.
After a hearty breakfast, day 2 starts with a visit to the hungry pigs. It’s slightly unnerving when they swim toward the inflatable, but we manage to avoid any mishaps by tossing the food away from us. Tony also maneuvers the dinghy away from any danger. The pigs are large and appear to be very well fed. Good eating for the locals when the cruisers are gone for the summer. We’ve got many more anchorages to explore and it’s a beautiful day for a sail. Yes. We sailed from Big Majors to Cambridge Cay within the park boundaries of the Exuma Land & Sea Park. Cambridge Cay highlights include snorkeling, swimming, beautiful beaches and sunset cocktails aboard “Chandelle”.
Day 3 we’re off to Wardrick Wells, the headquarters for the park. Again we swim and snorkel after a hike up Boo Boo Hill where Endurance has placed their driftwood plaque among the hundreds of others left by cruisers throughout the years. We found fellow cruisers’ names and had a great view of Endurance on the mooring. There is no fishing allowed within the land & sea park. Fines are $500/person per fish. The fish seem to know this as they stay within the boundaries and thrive. The current is strong. Tony encourages us to hold onto the dinghy while he drifts over the reef. The snorkeling is excellent. We see gigantic grouper and spiny lobsters as long as our arms. Day 4 finds us at Shroud Cay. Again we swim & snorkel. The highlight is a dinghy ride through the mangroves to an isolated beach on the sound side of the island. We’ve been sailing on the banks, the shallow side. The beach is right out of the Bahamas brochures. The water is beautiful, indescribably beautiful. The sand feels wonderful on my feet.
Day 5 sail brings us to the Highborne Cay anchorage where we swim again. Swimming is an every day, usually multiple times per day activity. Swimming, reading, eating, cribbage, exploring new anchorages, sunset happy hours. What an amazing vacation. AHHH!
Day 6 means a move to Allens Cay famous for its rock iquanas. They definitely look like miniature dinosaurs. Fascinating. The water is still beautiful. The anchorage has plenty of room for more boats. Of course, we swim off the back of the boat.
Day 7 - So sad, we must make our way to Nassau in order for me to catch my flight from Nassau to Boston the following day. The wind is light. The weather is hot! The longest passage of the trip is uneventful. Docked at Nassau Harbor Cay Marina for the 3rd time, Endurance and its Captain & Admiral are practically locals. They know the ropes and arrange for my taxi ride to the airport. There is a pool. We swim again.
Departure day - After a morning swim (of course) in the pool rather than the sea, a grand tour of the Bahamas ends with a taxi ride to Nassau’s newly remodeled international airport. The driver, Mrs. Moss, points out interesting facts along the way. The couple I’m sharing the ride with are returning to Hampton, Virginia after spending the last 5+ weeks helping their friend bring his boat from St. Thomas, Virgin Islands. They have sailed the boat through the same territories that I have been reading about in “An Embarrassment of Mangoes.”
What a relaxing and exciting vacation, an amazing and memorable adventure with my forever friends. AHHH! We had a pisser of a time.
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