Current Cut is a notorious place with a 90 foot wide channel from the bottom edge of the Northeast Providence Channel into the Eleuthera Bank. The guidebooks warn that the current can really set you back, so a slack tide is preferred. Based on Nassau tides, we expected to arrive just before High Slack. Are we an hour ahead or an hour behind Nassau? Clearly an hour ahead. We arrived at the beginning of a flood tide into the Eleuthera Bank. We picked up about two knots of speed and whizzed through at about 9 knots. Slowing down to make a 90ยบ turn to starboard, we slowly hugged Current island until we were free of the shifting sand and shoals on the inside of the Cut. From there, well you can see the pictures.
We soon met a fellow traveler in the form of a large porpoise (in excess of 12 feet). Unlike the bow riders we are used to, this fellow rode under the hull at the stern. He came up for air, first port then starboard, right at the aft end of the cockpit. Close enough to touch.
Arriving at Hatchet Bay about 1500 (dear God, 3:00, okay?!?), we toured both the North and South arms of the harbor, picking a mooring inside of a beautiful wooden boat from Rockport, Maine (s/v Three Belles), a well kept ketch. Making their acquaintance by dinghy, we learned that moorings here were recently serviced, safe and free. A walking tour of Alice Town cost us $4.00 in donations to the elementary school’s new air conditioner. We were solicited by a 5th grade boy and a 6th grade girl who are apparently neck-in-next competitors to raise the most money. The prize we were told by the younger is (though its hard to believe), a trip to America. On a hot, hot day like we had, I hope the winner doesn’t get dropped off in New England.
Our day ended with cocktails (BYOB) at the terrace of the Front Porch; closed for some reason, but still an oft utilized hang out spot for cruisers. There, Carl from Three Belles regaled us with stories of the caves and smugglers (known and unknown) making Hatchet Bay and Alice Town their home.
Though the lure of the caves was enticing, we decided to head South in the morning in order to reach Rock Sound before an expected Thursday evening front. The favorable wind and calm Eleuthera Sound made sailing irresistible, and we were content to sail at 4 to 5 knots on a 10 knot beam reach just as far as Governor’s Harbor. Here, at least, we could get our visas extended (an additional 120 days, giving us to May 15) and plan on heading to Rock Sound in the morning. Not known for great holding, but okay in the Northeast winds expected this evening, we are likely to worry much about dragging anchor this evening, but I hope that our first Bahamian lobster dinner will allay any unwarranted concern. (about to go into the oven, two lobster tails, seasoned, a little finely chopped onion, drawn butter and fresh lime juice squeezed atop; sides: rice and garlic spinach!)
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