We all loved Louisbourg!!

Wharf at Louisbourg. And its FREE for transients!!
Lobster Wharf across from us at Louisbourg,
New Crew Member?
The fog at Fortress Louisbourg.
Cannon Fire at Louisbourg.

Wednesday, July 09, 2008 (Port Howe to Louisbourg).

Dinner under way versus Dinner at Anchor


The day started at 0600. We could see land on three sides so thought it best to leave our snug anchorage quickly before more fog settled in. We apparently were not quick enough. As soon as we turned from West to East, all sight of the rocks was gone. We slowly made our way via sight, sound and Garmin GPS as several reboots of the Raymarine left us without our chartplotter. Raymarine’s radar was kept up and running so at least we had a sense of less doom as the radar arm loomed over the rocky coast. We had abandoned our planned exit via the Dover Passage (depth minimum 12 feet, width minimum 60 feet) as we could not see more than 20 feet. Instead we went out the way we came in. Port Island in front, Black Rock on the left, Whale Shoal all around us. When sufficiently South, we turned East as I spent a good 45 minutes getting the electronics in useable form. But, if everything worked right we would be just like power boaters. No “adventure” in that.

At 1020 local time we are just now across the St. Peter’s Bay Traffic Separation Zone (Channel) which technically means we are out of Nova Scotia Island and at Cape Breton Island. Today’s stop is Louisbourg, population 1,261. Other than the multi-million dollar Fort Restoration, the CCA Guide has this to say: “lacks charm”, and “restaurants are of the beanery variety” (whatever that means!). We plan on a tourist day at the Fort and rest up for our 30 hour transit to Ste. Pierre. It is somewhat amazing that in less than a week we will be headed into a third country. Like the Caribbean, but without the Sun. And warm water. And rum drinks. And…..

Tuesday, July 08, 2008 (Owls Head Bay to Port Howe).

Left Owls Head Bay in the thick o’fog at 0600 this morning. It was clear and almost bright when we arrived yesterday afternoon. A big fish farming operation (salmon and trout) is in the Bay. We came to near miss it on our way out this morning. We have an 80 plus mile day to Port Howe but with fickle West winds between 3 and 9, we are motoring at 7.5 knots. Though the Main is up, its just so we provide a bigger radar target as its flopping back and forth on the preventer as the wind clocks in four directions. Still on Plan B with a day trip to Port Howe today and another to Louisbourg tomorrow (only 60 odd miles). We are using the time to practice our fog-sailing skills. At 0845 we expect no real lifting until this afternoon. It’s only getting denser and wetter now. Nova Scotia is so beautiful, the fog insures that you don’t become jaded by looking at it too much.

[Tess] 6:30 pm EST now (7:30 Nova Scotia time) and we’re tucked into a harbor even more remote than Owl’s Head Bay. Osprey calling, heron on shore, the smell of Balsam Fir as it’s supposed to scent the air, naturally, sweetly, softly. We pulled in to this port an hour ago and the fog is now beginning to occlude all the scenery, but the harbor seals are still at play and the feeling of being right with the universe is at hand, as is a glass of scotch and a tumbler of George’s discovery – Espresso Vodka! Showers are steaming the day’s work out of folks, alcohol is letting the blood pump back a bit, and dinner is in the oven. Nothin’ wrong with this!

[George] Another great day on the water, is there any other? I’m not turning wrenches in 96 degree heat, can’t beat it. Leaving Owl’s Head Bay in the fog was surreal. The sun actually looked like another planet. The fog always seeming to tease; lifting, burying, lifting. Finally clearing into a beautiful day. This tiny little cove is awesome, one shore house spotted. Talk about isolation this is it. I see why they call this The Forgotten Coast.

[Tim] We did see something today, lots and lots of nothing.
Nothing in the morning because the fog was so thick it dripped on us.
Not a thing coming into this great anchorage because no one lives here.
I love what I’m seeing, but I can’t wait to see Paula.

Aboard Arcadian's Sun

Ladies on the Aft Deck
Sunset in Northwest Arm, Halifax

Halifax, Nova Scotia

Thanks, Bill!!
Sackville Wharf, halifax, Nova Scotia

Sunday, July 6, 2008 (Halifax Harbor).

Thanks to Bill Campbell, whom we’ve yet to meet, for arranging a great spot to dock. We were along side the same wharf as RCHMS Sackville of WWII fighting fame and the Maritime Museum. More importantly, we were on the waterfront promenade and within a two block stumble from the Argyle Street bars and restaurants. The Wooden Monkey, Economy Shoe, Opa, The Argyle and Maxwell’s Plum all showed us Canadian hospitality.

But the beauty of Halifax was shown to us by Andy and Jane Seaman who picked us up in their new trawler at 4:30 Sunday afternoon for a cruise down the Harbor and into Northwest Arm. After a tour of the Royal Nova Scotia and Armdale yacht clubs, we picked up their mooring and had a fabulous meal (and great strawberry shortcake) aboard Arcadian’s Sun. It was truly being made to feel at home and we all now feel that we are no longer tourists in Canada, but part of the family.

Skipping Shelbourne, put us two days ahead of schedule. As a result, we’ve decided to break up Leg Three to Louisbourg into three day trips. Monday to Owls Head bay near Ships Harbor and Liscombe. Tuesday to Port Howe near Dover. Wednesday into Louisbourg. Almost like being on vacation.

[GEORGE] Well, let me tell you, this first leg was a charmer. Whale close enough [almost did] touch, dolphins playing two foot abeam, great sailing and fantastic company. If I had to depart in Halifax I would be happy; every second I seem to have a smile on my face and a song in my heart. This is truly wonderful.

Day sail to Owl’s Head Bay just an amazing sail, good wind some fog, not too bad at all. Another great run, enjoying the bay looking forward to the rest of this wonderful experience.

[TESS] Well, they’ve got it pretty close. In fact, Thursday to Saturday was a bit of a blur – a sleep-induced blur as the men-folk grabbed naps in short but snorey stints, and I stumbled to the galley to prepare a meal, then stumble back to the captain’s berth with a new electronic anti-sea-sickness wrist band spasing into my flesh to abet the stugeron. I increased the stugeron, and finally tore off the damn torture device and slept through most of the passage safe as a bug in a rug. It is pretty wonderful to know these guys are taking care, paying close attention to the details, and then when off duty sounding a bit like Moe, Larry and Curly. Our visit with Andy and Jane was sublime. Sunset in gold and coral hues over silver water, excellent dinner, warm friendship – extended thanks to the gracious forethought of Pete and Anita Aubin of “I’m retired now, and my schedule is too full of fun to even try to think of more fun” fame.

Boat is clean, full of water and gold – I mean diesel – and we’re ready to sit down to a sunset dinner in a spot secluded from all but the most discriminating. Really, I love this (I miss my home, family and friends) I love this (I miss my home, family and friends) I ….you get it…that’s my mantra for now!

[TIM] Can’t write too much because Tess is feeding us yet again real soon. Just let me say this has been a great trip. Yes we have had some fog and we almost hit a whale and we can’t catch a fish because we have no bait but WE BE SAILING!
Ps I Love You Paula.

On the way to Nova Scotia

Delivery Crew
Dolphins
George's Catch (and Release)
Keeping the Log

Crossing to Nova Scotia. Friday, July 4, 2008 to Saturday, July 5, 2008.

After some great sailing all day on Thursday, at around 2230 we had the wind shifting on both sides of us from behind. The several gybes would have been worth the effort if the wind could hit 10 knots. It could not. And they all came down. We rode through the night and into Friday with a following sea. Not comfortable, but we were making good time. As we approached Blonde Rock off the western tip of Nova Scotia at around 1600 Friday, it looked like we’d have a midnight entry into Shelburne Harbor. The fog of the Canadian Maritimes also descended. We decided to skip Shelburne and head direct to Halifax for a 1300 arrival on Saturday. We merely jumped from our Leg One to our Leg Two course, bypassing Shelburne and staying offshore Nova Scotia. We never saw our marks in the fog (except as blips on the radar), but by Saturday morning it cleared (dolphins, seals and a sea turtle spotted) and we were at the Sackville Wharf in downtown Halifax by 1330.

And we're off....Thursday, July 3, 2008 (Gulf of Maine).

1400 and were out past Jeffries Ledge out of sight of land some 30 nm from Portsmouth. Bright and sunny with a consistent 30 knot breeze just ahead of the beam. Sledding to Nova Scotia at 7+ knots with 180 nm between here and Cape Sable.

We started the day right with breakfast at the Golden Egg. Seeing Attorney Bob Shaines there all suited up for a business meeting reminded me why I don’t work at a big firm anymore. Thank you, Bob.

By 0930 we were off D14 and at the WBTS fuel dock to top off. $4.79 is now our benchmark for the price per gallon and the strength of the once almighty dollar. From 2KR the sails were up and we were on a beam reach in 18 to 20 knots doing 7+ knots to Canada. As the wind increased, so did the mounting swells; letting us sled downhill at 8 to 9 knots all day. But as the wind slew to the dreaded East (luckily only SSE), we were forced to head up and reef down.

Most incredibly, at 1230 Tess sitting on the cockpit coaming, called out a possible whale. At her second “sighting” I rose from the helm to retrieve the camera and prepare for any actual sighting. One step away from the companionway, I looked up and we all screamed “WHALE!”. Literally 20 feet dead ahead was a 40 to 50 foot whale whose topsides from head to tail were above the water. We were lined up to T-Bone her right in the mid-section.

My frantic scramble back to the helm to turn hard 90º, was likely futile as we all anticipated the crash. Luckily, the leviathan moved away on her own and was gone. It took us all 20 minutes to recover our wits. Truly an amazing sight and an incredible near miss.

The bulk of the day saw Tim napping to recover from his 0400 arrival home from Oregon; and Tess and George looking for their sea legs. ENDURANCE soldiers on. Sails came down at 2230 when the wind went to the West. A fairly pleasant motor through the night with only two fishing boats sighted. A great sailing start to the adventure.

Expedition to Ste. Pierre & Miquelon starts soon!

We brought ENDURANCE down from GIBY in Harpswell, Maine on Saturday, June 28. A 59 nm ride with the wind on our stern quarter and following seas gave us a consistent 6 knots for a good seven hours. Good, means the length of time sailing. Good, does not mean comfortable. Though Tess and I were the only ones aboard, we downed enough Stugeron to equal all prior trips. It was cold. And damp. And wet. And dark. And rolling. But, hey... we were sailing.

It started raining as soon as we reached Portsmouth.

Nothing but work since then. Making the boat ready and provisioning. Our Thursday, July 3 debarkation is only a day away.

The plan has us on a four leg trip as follows;

Leg One: Portsmouth, NH to Shelburne, Nova Scotia. 260 nm.
Leg Two: Shelburne, NS to Halifax, NS. 112 nm.
Leg Three: Halifax, NS to Louisbourg, NS. 183 nm.
Leg Four: Louisbourg, NS to Ste. Pierre et Miquelon, France. 174 nm.

These legs give us a 1 & 1/2 to 2 day run with a day of rest planned in between. The result, we hope, is to reach France for Bastille Day on Monday, July 14. We'll spend the week enjoying Ste. Pierre & Miquelon, await the arrival of the Route Halifax - Ste. Pierre sailboat race competitors and after Saturday's Awards Ceremony, head to Fortune Bay in Newfoundland. From there, it's a tour of the Southwestern Coast of Newfoundland, crossing the Cabot Strait back to Cape Breton, sailing the Bras d'Or Lakes and southern coast of Nova Scotia, then home via Downeast Maine.

But, as mentioned on last Saturday's delivery from Harpswell, if the Canadian Maritimes are anything like that Casco Bay delivery, we may be home sooner than we think.

Let's hope summer returns within the next 36 hours......