Wednesday, January 05, 2011 leaving Nassau on a hot, sunny and windless day. Filled water tank and fuel tank before leaving Nassau Harbour Club Marina. $4.299 for diesel. A premium price which is 25 cents more than when we left on Christmas and 25 cents more than the Marina next door (deeper into the harbor by about 100 yards). When I was there yesterday filling a gasoline jerry can ($4.14 per gallon), the local guy pumping said that you should expect the price of fuel to rise the further you go East. But, Nassau Harbour Club is only a stone’s throw away, I says. It’s still East of here he says. Yes; an extra 25 cents East. We only took 24 gallons to fill up (a $6.00 premium). As we left, a boat pulled up asking for 800 gallons (a $200 premium over the place next door!!). Good to be a sailor!
An uneventful motor to Royal Island, just West of the town of Spanish Wells and the island of Eleuthera, about five miles distant. We did see a green turtle just before we went from a 5,800 foot depth to a 54 foot depth at SW Reef. Anchored now in the “pond” at Royal Island, we are in 9 feet of water and again surrounded by a protective set of cliffs. This time, unlike Norman’s Pond, we don’t have a treacherous cut and channel. A nice 14 feet of depth and well marked 35 foot cut (knock on wood).
Expecting a front to move in on Thursday, so we may be here for a couple of days. Good cell phone coverage to talk and good Sat Phone reception for e-mail. A steak in the frying pan. Johnnie Walker in a clinking glass. We may be here for weeks. No need to move until one of you says “Meet me in Georgetown!
Wednesday was a big work day aboard Endurance. In addition to re-provisioning, we added port and starboard sailboards to the forward stanchions. This allows us to tie down the bikes and two 5 gallon jerry cans of gas on deck. Also makes us look like real cruisers.
The big event of the day was dinner prepared by Mary Clare Davis’s nephew Kevin. A former sous chef for Eric Ripare, Kevin is now executive chef at Mahogany House on (ou-la-la) Lyford Cay. (If I hear one more time that Sean Connery lives there I’ll scream!). Kevin did let us know that we would be “outside the gates”.
Nevertheless, we had a fantastic dinner among the rich and probably famous (how would we know?). Everyone looks like they are from Hollywood (Nantucket). We were among the dozen folks over 50 in the place. At one point, the woman at the table next to Tess leaned over and asked if she knew us, since we looked so familiar. Tess responded that we were just visiting, to which I added “We are famous, but not around here”. I guess we even looked like we belonged. The restaurant has the ambiance of a high end neighborhood joint for that Larry David crowd on HBO. Maybe I’ll dig out my screenplays and make a pitch. (Mr. Sarcasm himself doesn’t do justice to this place. It is beautiful; cool music, casual yet elegant interior with rich wood tones and open spaces; quiet enough for a good conversation at our table not to be heard at the next. Tables on a veranda outside under trees, great bar, wine cellar which will soon host a special dining service…this is the “It” place. The menu is comfortable and creative at the same time – and the food was out of the world…sauces that were light and layered with flavors…omg!)
But, most importantly, Kevin looks great. Works seven days a week from six p.m. to midnight, has nothing to do thereafter since everything closes up early on his side of the Island, so suffers more from exhaustion and boredom than anything else. We really saw the Lyford Cay – Cable Beach area for the first time on the drive in (by the Marina Manager, Peter, who lives on Lyford Cay - did I mention, that’s where Sean Connery lives!?). As a result, plenty of hotels near by, but away from the exclusive Lyford Cay gates. Come out and visit Kevin. We’d be happy to join you for dinner there anytime!
Hopefully, Kevin will get a little work respite time while we’re here and will track us on the blog and come join us for a sail and some time away. He does look great, loves what he’s doing and what he’s done, and was a gracious host to us, running our first two plates out himself before the house filled. I had a birds eye view of watching him work. Pretty cool – MC and family deserves to brag!!!
Claiming that our picture is of a Sea Robin, George Marts may have won the fiirst Identification Contest. A bit of research shows that it may likely be a Bandtail Sea Robin, but his entry is close enough.
George's prize, a week's cruise in the Bahamas aboard s/v Endurance. You pick the time, we'll pick the place (and suggest a close airport).
Consolation prizes will be awarded to those who dispute the Judges' decision with appropriate documentary evidence.
Our first Identification Contest. What's this? A fish laying on the bottom, when startled, spreads it's wing-like side fins and "swims" away. Prizes awarded!!
Had a wonderful Christmas Week in the Bahamas with Charlie, Tabby and Katie arriving on Christmas Eve. We celebrated Christmas officially with a roast and Yorkshire pudding and opening of stockings on Christmas Eve in order to accommodate the sailing schedule – leave on Christmas or be stuck in Nassau for three days of weather. We missed Alison sorely all week.
Set off from Nassau on Christmas day for Norman’s Cay in the Exumas. It was a beautiful sail, an easy reach, flat seas with good wind and everyone enjoying the cockpit and decks. Norman’s Cay is infamous having been a drug lord’s den in the 1980’s, but all that’s left of that history are a few beaten up buildings and stories. Spent a night at anchor off the West side of Norman’s, but in the morning we expected a cold front to move in, so we moved to Norman’s Pond. The Pond is a great big anchorage, about 200 acres, fully enclosed with only one narrow (and shallow) entrance. We arrived at high tide and saw no depths less than 6 feet (we need 5). We “walked” into the Pond, slowly, carefully, with inch by inch course corrections – it was a moment to be so proud of father-son tag-teaming. It was a daring move in; only one chart gave a sense of possibility, but once through the cut we saw a dozen other boats peacefully anchored. As the front arrived we had winds gusting to 40 and 50 knots, but barely a ripple in the water. The result was a comfortable night and a cozy second day and night as the front passed and the weather subsided. The Pond was beautiful, if the weather was not. Katie and Tony did our first swim off the deck; Charlie began the first of his week of sea-water bathing after a swim. The snorkels came out, board and word games were played, we ate well, enjoying being together, and waiting for Alison’s evening call.
On Tuesday, we intended to leave Norman’s Pond on the rising tide and figured we were at mid-tide for our 10:00 A.M. start. This time, as we skirted the channel close to shore, with one more left hand turn to put us in the cut, our depth sounder read 4.6 (did I say we needed 5?). We stopped. Or, more appropriately, we were stopped. Rising tide. No worries. We let out the staysail to push us off. No movement. We let out the big headsail to grab that forward breeze. No movement. Finally, we put up the mainsail and caught a big gust which lifted us up and over the shallow bank. But, our turn to the cut was immediate, so we need to quickly drop the sail and stay off the rocks. Flawlessly done. Only an hour’s delay. And where were Katie and Tabby during these tense moments. Recognizing danger, they retreated below to chit-chat and ignore the drama in the cockpit. Did he say ‘drama’? Let’s picture this: we have run aground between rocky piles looking more like a mogul run at Sunday River than a passable cut. We have Tony, Tess and Charlie above deck with lines going out and coming in and eyes peeled watching for both positive movement (to port and forward), negative movement (to starboard and aft to the 2’ stake), and inertia with just sand kicking up beneath and around us. Getting us off the spit was certain, but the technical requirements were intense. Charlie loaded the main and the jib and immediately upon getting the load needed to dump it to execute the turn through the pass…it was Awesome when it worked; a little tense in the lead in, especially when Tess mistook the word “No” for “Go” and began to release a sheet early which I’d been clearly asked to leave alone. Oops, my bad.
But, rewarded we were. A great sail South in Exuma Sound (back to the 1000s of feet of depth) to Warderick Cay and the Exuma National Maritime Park. We had been granted a mooring so we were tucked in close to Park Headquarters. This gave us an opportunity to take a long hike which ended at Boo Boo Hill; the highest point on the Cay. The next morning we did it all. Hiked. Snorkeled. Kayaked (Tess’ Christmas gift from the kids). Lazed on the beach. Dove on a wreck. A really amazing place.
Off we were on Thursday for Highborne Cay. A great anchorage on the western beach. The high pressure system which arrived after the cold front past has been paying off. Great weather. Warm water. Great beach. And snorkeling at a reef called Octopus’ Garden. Great chance to practice with my new dive mask camera (another Christmas gift from the kids). Check out the pictures that follow.
What we’re not telling you is that we get to each of these places, and see perhaps 10 people, maybe a dozen…and they’re not really near us, we simply see them, or walk past them, or wave. We’re alone in paradise with most of our kids. Pretty cool. Alison was taking pictures of the snow in Brooklyn while we were rinsing the sand off our feet before going aboard……
But alas, knowing we had flights to catch on New Year’s Day, we sailed the next morning to Nassau. I caught a fish en route, thanks to my schooling from George earlier this month (used that green grass skirty thing, you suggested). (he looked so CUTE in it) It was about 14 inches, smooth and silvery. I think it was some kind of Jack, a Bonito or a Great White Shark. I dropped it on the deck and it escaped before Charlie could get the camera set up for the big picture. I’ll get another, I’m sure.
New Year’s Eve, we took a cab to Atlantis and saw all the things the tourists see. The “Dig” which is an amazing and huge aquarium. The Predator Aquarium filled with sharks. And all of the grounds. It seems we went in the wrong door and all of a sudden had access to everything the paying guests get to see. Not bad. Like a free trip to Disney World.
Dinner at the Poop Deck, back toward home was followed by Sailor’s Midnight (9:00 P.M.) at which time we all said good night. But in Nassau, we were awoken by the Midnight fireworks. An amazing spectacle, though we each merely glanced out our respective portholes and then covered our ears with pillows until the explosions stopped. Too much of a good thing, I guess.
The only downside of the trip was sharing a family flu/cold. We each took a turn going to bed before dinner one night, using up a box or two of tissues a piece, discussing the merits of Nyquil v Sudafed v Mucinex and drinking hot tea with honey to ease our throat and chills. For this one thing, Alison joined us. I’m sorry honey; I wish I could have made you some tea and listened to you cough and try to breathe with the rest of us! I hope you’re feeling better, too.
Sadness on the departure of the family. Now we feel that we are here. Left to explore the rest of the Bahamas. After the clean up and re-provisioning, we sail South….
I think that our last post was December 18. I broke off saying that I would update all on our week in Ft. Lauderdale. Forget it! Nothing but work. You’ve seen the pictures of the Ft. Lauderdale Boat parade. The biggest in the world. Dick and Lorraine Lavalliere came down from West Palm for dinner and to see the parade. The only highlight of our week.(Okay, there were a few highlights, like seeing the newest Marts grandchildren who are simply adorable, as well as their big sister and brother/cousins.. and sadly missing seeing two of those new kids on the block, next time Dio and Alex…and seeing our family in a more relaxed way – casual family dinners and an evening or two of revelry…and lastly, learning that wind can blow like crazy for 3 days solid, then just stop! That was an interesting lesson we’d need to know, and best to learn it while otherwise preoccupied with groceries, laundry, electronics and charting) Let’s stick to the Bahamas!!
Crossing from Miami on Friday, December 17, we left at 0447 in order to get a good jump on the day. (I was told we’d leave at 6:00; motor on at 4:30?!? These guys are freaking nuts to go – pitch black out, beautiful city lights of Miami behind us, a line of cruise ships inching their way to port, one carrying our dear friends the Schoonmakers. We waved – I don’t think they saw us) Had a calm and fast crossing of the Gulf Stream under power as what little wind there was, was on our nose. We steered a course 20º off our mark in order to counter the effect of the northward flowing Gulf Stream. Entering the harbor at Bimini was much more tense. This is where you learn quickly how to read the water. Dark is good. Light is bad. Like so many others before us, we back-tracked and started a second time, coming in via the channel running within a few yards of the sandy beach on South Bimini island. Arrived in Bimini proper at 1230 waived off the first Marina we called since they expected us to dock next to the garbage ramp. “Don’t worry. That garbage scow is almost done and will be leaving.” Went to Brown’s Marina instead.
At Brown’s we docked the boat amid a school of squid. Beneath the dock proper were schooling needle fish and sergeant majors. George pointed out the head of a moray eel peeking out amid the rocks at the waters edge just waiting for someone to swim in. The water is literally more shallow than Sylvia’s pool, just as warm, and just as clear. You’ll see photos later that you’ll think are in a pool – pretty amazing to look down through 10, 20, 60 feet of water and see sand and rocks on the bottom. It ain’t Maine, and it sure as hell isn’t the Chesapeake!
Running into a British couple outside the Customs Office, they were all keen to compare “how much time” we received. The big Cruiser complaint this year is apparently the fact that Canadians are being given only 90 day Cruising Permits. I understood them to be saying that some folks were only getting thirty days. I went in and asked for 120 days (till April 1, essentially) and was told no, I was good until June 1. I thought it paid off to shave and put on a clean shirt. At immigration next door, though, I asked for a 120 day visa for me and Tess (only two weeks for our crew, George), but “new rules”, we only received 30 days each. Renewable at any immigration office in the islands. On that basis, I was content, but other Cruisers apparently find this to be a great imposition. The Immigration lady explained that they tended to have some Cruisers “go missing” in the past and were trying to keep closer track of them.
Our day in Bimini had us chase (literally) the annual Candy Cane Parade of school children making their way from Alice Town several towns over to the Bimini school. We literally ran after them through back roads and “short cuts”, catching up several miles from our starting point and very close to the school. We all received candy canes for our efforts, but on the walk home (along the beach side facing Miami), we stopped at CJ’s for cracked conch and conch fritters. Absolutely great and a must find sort of place. Both C and J were there as well as the Immigration lady (still in uniform), drinking beer with a Hennessey chaser at the ready. We got to know these folks well since there was only room for the six of us, the cook and the beer cooler.
Off the dock with an assist from Darrell in a 20 knot wind at 0920 on Saturday, we headed South toward Gun Cay and Turtle Rocks sailing in a breeze from the SSE. At the Triangle Rocks/Barnett Harbour Cut, we turn left and are out of the Straits of Florida and on to the Grand Bahama Bank.. Water depth drops from 600 feet to and average of 12 feet for the next 90 nautical miles. An amazing sight to see water in all directions and be in water no deeper than a swimming pool. While we had on and off drizzle all day, it was a warm and easy motorsail till we neared sunset. We anchored on the Bank (careful to pull out of the “channel”) at 1713. While the channel was no more than 12 feet (often only 8 or 9), we anchored in 16 feet about 2 nm between the convergence of two “magenta lines” (the lines on the chart followed from point-to-point by most boats – in this case from Gun Cay just South of Bimini and North Rock just North of Bimini, running in each instance to the light at Northwest Shoal.
In the morning we were on our way to Northwest Shoal, were the Grand Bahama Bank ends and the water drops off to over 9,000 feet in the Tongue of the Ocean. Yes, 9,000 feet. And a stretch of ocean that runs between the various Bahamian “Banks”. Down and up again at the Chub Cay anchorage, where it was clear we would spend a miserable and rolling night, we headed further East to the Berry island Club moorings at Frazier’s Hog Cay. By 1430 we were drinking $3 Kalik’s and watching Fox Red Zone Football on the big screen TV. Frazier’s Hog Cay is a picture perfect Bahamian sight. Mangroves, beach and a single dock and building. We knew we had arrived.
But, having a schedule to keep (as per usual), we were gone again at 0802 on Monday and off to Nassau. The great news was we had 20 to 30 knot wind abeam for the whole trip and had our first full day of sailing since….!? We also had a large and following sea and were cranking out 7.5 to 8.0 knots for as long as I could hold the wheel. George hooked two sailfish as we trolled, but could only hope to drown them at these speeds. They broke off and will be on our list to find again someday.
Nassau. Now that’s an incredibly busy looking place. After obtaining clearance from Nassau Harbour Control to enter the harbour and proceed to our selected marina, we passed huge Cruise Ships, the Disney-esque tourist city of Atlantis, we had to figure out how to navigate under the two fixed bridges. You apparently do that by near-scraping along a line of local fishing boats, then taking a 90º turn to the right in front of the Looming MailBoat freighter, then 90º again to pass the proper portion of the bridge. The sailboat in front of us was kind enough to slow down so that we could find the way for them.
Four days at Nassau Harbour Club Marina, with the first two monopolized by attempts to get the phone and communications systems organized, began to look like Ft. Lauderdale. It seems that as soon as a boat hits a dock, there is nothing but work to be done. Better to stay off the dock. But, everything did get fixed (thanks, George), and cocktail hour begins here at 1330 (except when it begins sooner). A liquor seminar for three was conducted at the Green Parrot bar one afternoon, where the otherwise bored bartender insisted that we taste every liquor we happened to mention, many he suggested and some concoctions which he no doubt spent years developing. He charged us for four Kalik’s and a single shot of run ($32) despite the fact that we likely had a dozen additional drinks between us. That is an Island education. Another was lunch at Double D’s where we had the local favorites, a Conch Souse and a Fish Head Stew. No one ordered the Sheep’s Tongue. (no worries Gil, I had the “chicken snack” which apparently means, “with fries”. Good to know)
We also made a daily trek to Potter’s Cay (pronounced key, don’t ask me why it’s spelled that way) to walk among the very “rustic” (read, you’re kidding, right? You’re not going to eat anything from there…) “shops” (read, country fair kissing booth that’s been up for 10 years straight and never particularly improved) to eat a Styrofoam bowl of conch salad, de-shelled and prepared in front of us, from pulling that puppy out, stripping him down, cutting, slicing, dicing with tomatoes, peppers, scotch bonnets, cucumber and then doused in juices from a lime or two, and orange or two, and perhaps a lemon. Tony and George couldn’t get enough. Tess had enough just watching!
Tony and George did Manly Work daily while I did the ubiquitous laundry, cleaning, groceries…but each day we paused for a little adventure. Snorkels were out for Tony & George to dive on a reef in the harbor while I stood guard in the dinghy…cute seeing the two of them off for fishing gear, or snorkel gear, or new tools…brothers and friends. It’s a nice thing.
Friday, December 24 we made a crew change losing George, but gaining Charlie, Tabby and Katie for their respective Christmas Week breaks.
Well, if you are watching the iBoatTrack on the Blog (http://svendurance.blogspot.com), you know that we are at least half way across the Grand Bahama Bank. Essentially a 20 foot table that runs a good 90 miles from Bimini to Chubb Cay. How did we get here?
The last Blog entry was apparently way back on our Thanksgiving Cruise with the Schoonmakers. Charleston to Savannah with two overnight anchorages in the creeks flowing into the Intrascoastal Waterway. Great time in Savannah. A city that is, in my view at least, nicer than Charleston for its historic streets, squares and Southern gentleness. We were taken on several tours of the famous Savannah Squares by Jill and Bill and able to access great restaurants from the convenience of our city-side berth at the Hyatt Hotel. The surprising thing about the Savanna\h River is that it is the fifth busiest container ship port in the United States. But unlike Los Angeles, or New York or Baltimore, there is no expansive harbor. These huge ships enter the Savannah River at Tybee Roads and head 15 miles up river into the heart of the city. They then go under a 135 foot fixed bridge to access the working port at the river’s edge. As a result, our pre-bridge location often had us wondering why it got so dark all of a sudden. Looking up, a way of container ship would pass.
Highlights of Savannah, apart from the delightful company of the Schoonmakers, included those wonderful walks, the architectural, colonial and confederate history, and great food. B Matthews (the oldest tavern in Savannah), Molly McPherson’s (Scots, not Irish!!), and a progressive dinner which started at Vics for cocktails and appetizers, and ended at Rocks on the River for dinner and nightcaps on the roof.
On Tuesday, November 30, Bill and I began to get the boat ready for its offshore passage, and by Noon, Jill and Bill were off to the airport and George arrived to act as passage crew to Ft. Lauderdale. A passing front kept us at dockside on Tuesday and pushed our start date for Ft. Lauderdale off until Wednesday. Keen weather sense was at work here. As well as a heads up phone call from Captain Tim who was on a Southbound delivery and pulled in to St. Mary’s, just South of us, to wait out the coming storm.
Wednesday, December 1, we were off the dock by 0715 and headed the 15 miles to Tybee Roads and our meeting with the great big ocean. She was there, alright. Jumping up and down to see us!! Like really high up and down. The passing gale had decided ton stay awhile and we ran offshore to get in the deeper water, but still faced 12 to 15 foot waves and a pounding sea. No fun. And, having literally not sailed the ocean since our Fall 2009 transit from Portland to Baltimore (most of which, with Tim and Dennis, we motored in a glassy dead calm), it was like learning to sail all over again. Like learning, because we didn’t learn so well for a while.
We reached a point about 12 miles offshore from St. Mary’s about midnight and things began to settle down quite comfortably once we hit the Florida State line. Moving in closer to shore the wind had clocked around and we had wind and waves astern the rest of the way to South Florida. Though the first 254 hours went from desperate to horrible, the balance of trip was “worth it after all”. Florida sunshine, cavorting porpoises, and literally flocks of flying fish skimming the crystal blue waters. This is why we headed South, right?
Having sailed some good following breezes, we were only 30 minutes after sunset when we turned right into the channel for Port Everglades and Ft. Lauderdale. No worries, I thought. It’s a big city and there will be plenty of ambient light to make our way up the channel to Hall of Fame Marina. We made the 6:00 opening of the 17th Street Bridge. Good timing. On the other side of the bridge, the lights went out. I mean out. Really dark. It’s not a city, a suburb on the water. And it looked like everyone had closed their shades and gone to bed. A very tense and very slow daymark to daymark (emphasis on “day”) trail was followed to Hall of Fame. They closed at 6:00, but we knew to look for Slip 216 on the South dock just after the sportfisherman “Marlin Madness”. Which we passed. Bow out. And ended up in slip 210, putting us stern-to to a 125 foot motoryacht “Cariad” on the face dock of Bahia Mar Marina. Not happy with that layout, we spent the next 90 minutes maneuvering the boat kitty-corner in our double loaded slip and backing out at angle so as not to puncture a hole in the side of Cariad. That put us bow in to Slip 216 and, for next time, stern-to an open slipway at Bahia Mar. Savannah to Ft. Lauderdale in 59 hours. Exhausted, we headed to Coconuts for dinner.
On Dec 4, 2010, at 5:44, Tess Marts wrote: We arrived last evening. It was a rough road the first 24 hours, but how quickly that can be forgotten with beautiful, warm blue water, friendly seas, schools of little flying fish skipping across from wave to wave! (they look like tiny bluebirds, or tinkerbells of the sea). Apparently they fly to avoid being eaten by toothsome sea-creatures, but they are so Cute in their flight of terror!
Saturday, December 4 was a wash down and clean up day. Followed by a bit of catching up with South Florida relatives and a (mostly liquid) siblings dinner at the Bahia Mar Lobby Bar. Sailing and relatives require copious amounts of alcohol.
By Monday, I was on a plane to Manchester and Tess was left with boat work and family visiting. A blur until my return on Wednesday, December 8.
The following week was a flurry of activity as we attempted to ready ourselves and our boat for crossing the Gulf Stream and living in the Bahamas.
More on that to come. As well as pictures and further updates. The hour of wifi I have on Frasier’s Hog Cay has ended, so I must get this posted. Stay in touch…
Potters Cay Conch Shack
New front end...
Nice work.
Potters Cay
They have everything here!!!
Jill at helm
Bill at Helm
Happy, not to be at helm
Savannah River Traffic
After the Gale!
Nice Company
Eye to Eye friendly!
Ft. Lauderdale Christmas Boat parade. The biggest in the world. Almost 100 boats.
Leaving Miami at 0500.
Sunrise over the Bahamas as we head East.
Raising the Flag in Bimini.
Crew Whites, with Tie.
What!??!##!!
Hard at work in Nassau...
