Some catching up...Black Harbor to Farmer's Cay

Getting in to a groove….

Just noticed that our last post brought us to January 31 when we caught our first Bonito or Little Tunny coming in to Black Point Harbor.  Our second Florida Bonito was caught as we headed down Exuma Sound to Lee Stocking Cay.

In the interim, we had a great time in Black Harbor, hitting all the “must see” cruisers’ spots.  First, the Rock Bound Laundrymat (sic) at which proprietor Ida also gives haircuts!  Tess treated her Scottish Lion’s Mane to a little love from Ida—sitting in a “camp” plastic chair out front, looking into a harbor of  crystal blue with boats at anchor, Ida cut away in between selling tokens for washers and dryers.  Tess was DELIGHTED to be shorn a bit.  

Next, Lorraine’s Café with great food, donation based wifi and a help-yourself beer cooler and bar.  Lorraine’s mom makes the best coconut bread we have eaten so far.  We pulled out the real toaster one morning to take advantage of that (big electricity user, that toaster hasn’t been seen in a long time).  Next “must see” was a tour of the Garden of Eden with a small band of fellow travelers (Painkiller, Georgia E and Ocean Star).  The Garden of Eden is a sculpture garden filled with limestone, rock and driftwood pieces in the artist’s front and back yard.  The yard itself is like a lava lake of limestone with numerous sink holes in which fruit trees, banana trees pigeon peas and vegetables have been planted. The artist’s wife gave us a botanical tour of their delights - a stunning variety of tropical plants, and especially fruits, identified for us.  Even tasted a tamarind pod, thanks to the expertise of Steve from Ocean Star.

The hot stroll was topped off with a cooling sit in the harbor in her pink tube.

But despite our great time at Black Point, we moved South to Little Farmers Cay on Thursday, February 2.  We had 16 to knots on the beam the whole way and sailed our best sail of the trip (have we said that before?).  Once again Tess and the girls took advantage of the Pink Relief.

The reason for Little Farmers Cay is the famous “Five F”.  The Farmers Cay First Friday in February Festival.  This is the 25^th annual event.  The Cay has a population, we are told, of only 55.  But in addition to festival-goers and other dignitaries from other islands (including Saturday’s visit by the Exuma High School Marching Band), there were 117 cruising boats in attendance.  As you might imagine, the cruisers dominated the local bar scene; highlight of the cruisers events was an open-mic jam night with Scott of Painkiller looking like Mick Jagger himself as the announcement was made that “all bagpipes were mandatory”…he brought tears to a few eyes with Amazing Grace at sunset and the largest round of admirers throughout the Yacht Club.  

The other highlight for us was Saturday’s Bahamian C-Class Sloop Regatta.  These are essentially 12 foot dinghies with a single sail that is gigantic.  They are crewed by four to six guys who try to keep the massive mast from going over by hiking out on a windward 2x8 that slides a good 10 feet out on one side of the boat or the other.  Pretty exciting and colorful sailing.  They start from a dead stop at anchor and raise anchors and sail simultaneously at the starting gun.  Lots of banging and clashing of boats, but no protests are allowed.

Sunday the anchorages thinned out quickly.  It seemed that half the boats made the sail North the 10 miles back to Black Harbor in order to get a seat in front of a big screen television at Lorraine’s or Dasharmon’s for the Super Bowl.  The other half joined a train banging South into the wind and waves for the 50 mile trip to Georgetown.  We followed the latter group (see Bonito above), but jumped off at Lee Stocking Cay to check out the Marine Research Center here.  Haven’t seen it yet, but had some great shallow grass snorkeling with the Messenger kids (huge rays, reef fish, Margate and barracuda) and the Pink Relief came out as well.

After grilling up the day’s catch as a pre-dinner appetizer, a six foot barracuda made its rounds around the boat.  We threw him the scraps from our catch which he grabbed voraciously.  Result – IDEA!!  I grabbed the spinning rod which had a large squid lure attached and was able to sight cast it right to him about 20 yards from the boat. WHriiirrrrrr… goes the line as he grabbed it and ran.  As I pulled the line taut, he jumped a good four feet out of the air and a distance of at least 15 feet.  Extraordinary.  Lost the fish, but got my heart racing.  Glad to get the hook back, but  more glad to not have to get him off the hook myself.        

Ended the day with a Game Night on Messenger.  Thank goodness they are around, since they bring a little bit of home to these tropical surroundings.